It's easy to forget except, of course during the sweltering summer months- that Baltimore is, essentially, a southern town. But it's always easy to appreciate this downtown restaurant's elegant, yet simple, French-inspired Southern cuisine. Take the fried oysters, for instance, in their golden-brown cornmeal batter, or the crab soup that's as creamy as most bisques. These are true examples of gracious living. Add the tranquil, pastel-colored decor and the expert service and you come up with a most enjoyable dining experience.