When many people hear of Canada, the first place that springs to mind is Banff. The soaring peaks, dense coniferous forests and abundant wildlife are a Canadian institution. The Banff townsite sits within Banff National Park, Canada's oldest and most spectacular Heritage Site. Home to many of the nation's most famous landmarks, densely populated with wildlife and full of opportunities for relaxation and adventure, Banff is Canada's ambassador to the world and one of the country's most-visited tourist attractions.

Banff is 100 kilometres west of Calgary and sits in the first range of the Eastern Slope Rocky Mountains. The landscape is rugged, consisting of towering black mountains, deep blue and white glaciers and alpine tundra. The valley bottoms are densely carpeted with spruce and pine trees, and fast-flowing rivers churn through their centers.

Almost all the people and animals in Banff live in these river valleys, most of which are less than a mile wide. Banff is home to black and grizzly bears, whitetail and mule deer, elk, bighorn sheep and mountain goats. Some people visit Banff just to see the animals, who are easy to observe and fairly docile. However, it is best to bother the animals as little as possible.

The city of Banff is relatively tiny, squeezed into a narrow mountain valley and bisected by the Bow River. Nearly all the restaurants and businesses in town are crammed into three blocks of Banff Avenue, which makes for a densely packed market atmosphere. South of the Bow River is the legendary and magnificent Fairmont Banff Springs, and the Upper Hot Springs. Several kilometers to the west of town is the Cave and Basin National Historic Site, and to the west is the Golf Course Road, which is flanked by verdant fairways and greens.

A kilometer or so northwest of town are the Vermilion Lakes, a small chain of marshy ponds with walking trails running alongside that make a picturesque stroll, summer or winter. The deserted airstrip lies across the Trans-Canada Highway, along with the Cascade Ponds and Lake Minnewanka. This area is popular with hikers in the summer, but should be avoided in the winter, as there may be icefalls from the steep slopes above.

To the north is Mount Norquay Ski Area, which is only a 10-minute drive from town up a spectacular mountain road. Sunshine Village Ski Resort is a 20-minute drive to the west, and Lake Louise Ski Area is another half hour north. Along the Icefields Parkway towards the north end of the park is the Icefields Center and Athabasca Glacier—both are worth a visit. If you are driving to Banff, you might want to take a day or two and visit the Radium Hot Springs, which lie a two-hour drive west of Banff along one of the most spectacular stretches of highway in the world.

The town of Canmore is a 15-minute drive to the east of Banff, just outside the park boundaries. This small mountain community received international attention in 1988 when it hosted the Winter Olympics Nordic skiing events at the Canmore Nordic Centre. Since then, it has become a popular spot for athletes to train, because of both the high altitude and excellent facilities. There are many hotels and shops in Canmore that rival those in Banff, and a great many tour companies that operate in the park are based here. Canmore is a great place to find the down-home local culture that is sometimes lacking in Banff. With lower food and housing prices, Canmore is home for many Banff business owners, as well as a center of late-night activity during the summer. Canmore's dramatic mountain backdrop and easy access to the back-country has made it an ideal location for shooting Hollywood mountain movies. The actors can often be seen wandering around the downtown area and blending in with the locals.

Getting to Banff is quite easy. The park is an easy two-hour drive from the airport in Calgary, and many Banff hotels offer airport shuttle service. If you are planning to drive to Banff, which requires driving through the park, make sure to purchase a parks pass from the kiosk on the Trans Canada Highway in Canmore. If you are caught without a pass in the park, you could receive a ticket and fine. Parks personnel often check vehicles in ski area parking lots, so it is better to spend CAD10 on the pass than face a hefty fine.

Camping areas are scattered throughout the park, from commercial campgrounds with showers and cooking areas to wilderness campsites that are little more than a clearing in the trees. If you intend to camp, be sure to check with Parks Canada to ensure that the area you are heading into is safe and that there are vacant sites available. Fees for camping in Parks Canada campgrounds range from CAD10-CAD24 per night.