It is worth straying a few quick blocks from the bustle of Chinatown's epicenter to get to the Evergreen, a pleasant eatery that avoids the cliched dragon-and-phoenix décor of most Chinese restaurants. This is a comfortable family restaurant that carries a touch of class. All your favorites are tasty and served steaming hot, like comfort food should be. But what makes the Evergreen a real find is its many dishes that are excitingly different, yet still accessible. Try the lightly fried spice-salt soft-shelled crabs, the steamed pork with Chinese mustard greens and the revolving array of simply prepared fresh Chinese vegetables that burst with flavor.