Parma
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Exploring Parma
Parma’s beauty, as a ducal city, is for the most part concentrated in its old town. To really get to know the place though, you need to take a walk around Oltretorrente, or rather in the area around the river Parma which is most characteristic, with its narrow streets, little piazzas and rows of houses that bring to mind the streets of Venice. There is the Parco Ducale with its palazzo (now home to the police’s provincial headquarters), enclosed by trees and green meadows which are so attractive to young and old alike. Another historic monument and a place to relax and regroup is the Cittadella, which is surrounded by one of Parma’s most elegant areas.
The old town really consists of ‘everything surrounding Piazza Garibaldi’. Apart from bars and shops (this area is a real godsend for those who love shopping) the majority of the monuments, historical palaces and museums are concentrated in a circle, its encompassed by Via Mazzini, Via Repubblica, Via Garibaldi and Via Farini. There really is a great deal to see here. Leaving the piazza and entering Via Cavour, (the main walkway where thousands of youngsters meet up to strut their stuff in the afternoon) you will soon reach the cathedral and the Battistero. The Vescovado, overlooks the same piazza and houses the administrative offices. Situated behind the cathedral is the church of San Giovanni, which is worth a look; it is a building which displays several different styles of architecture, especially important for its dome, decorated with frescoes by Correggio: a scene depicting the ascension of the saint which has conquered the world. The entire monastery annexed to the church is fascinating, with its unique library decorated by frescoes and the cloisters adorned with an abundance of flowers, if you are really lucky, the monks will show you some of the most ‘secret’ cloisters. Beside the monastic complex is the Spezieria di San Giovanni, an old ‘pharmacy’ which is a mecca for tourists and students from all over Italy and the rest of the world. Not far from there (turning into Via Cavour and entering Via Melloni) is the monastery of San Paolo. The abbess’ chamber is worth a visit, as it bears marks of Correggio's works.
From via Melloni to via Garibaldi: the spectacle of the Piazzale della Pace, with the Pilotta will soon put in an appearance and will not disappoint. This imposing Farnesian fortress, overlooks a green meadow, and captures the heart of many a visitor. Not far away, towards Via Mazzini on the left hand side is the Steccata church, a baroque masterpiece with a triumphant arch inside and a small but masterful Parmigiano fresco. The piazza adjacent to this church bears the same name and is also very attractive. Then there is the Parmigianino monument, at the centre of the piazza with a fountain beneath, ideal for letting the young ones play around and giving your dog a drink. The Vender clothes shop is very interesting and has remained more or less the same since the beginning of the century; it still manages to fascinate locals and tourists alike.
The old town is full of churches and some of these are really worth a look. If you are in Via Repubblica you must visit Sant’Antonio Abate, on the corner of Via Saffi (inside there is a fresco by Jacopo Bibiena) and Santa Cristina, on the corner of Via XXII Luglio. Close by, in borgo della Posta, is another small but fascinating sanctuary surrounded by old palaces, almost completely hidden: Santa Maria Maddalena, where both Catholic and Orthodox religious rites are practiced. In Via Garibaldi, Sant’Alessandro is worth a visit if you are lucky enough to find it open and in Piazzale San Bartolomeo stands a church of the same name.
There are also plenty of palaces belonging to old families of the local nobility. You only need to take a walk to notice them with their imposing façades, internal gardens and gorgeous staircases. There are some in Via Repubblica (Palazzo Rangoni, home of the prefecture, Palazzo Marchi, etc), in Via Farini (Palazzo Carmi, Palazzo Meli Lupi), in Piazzale Santafiora (still in Via Farini) stands the Palazzo Pallavicino, still lived in today by the Marquis Pierluigi. Palazzo Valenti, Palazzo Tarasconiare in Via XXII Luglio.
L'Oltretorrente
This is the most characteristic area and can be reached by taking Via Mazzini, towards the river and crossing the ponte di Mezzo. Before heading into all the small villages it is worth taking a look at the Ghiaia, the covered market at the end of Via Mazzini, where the river once ran. Oltretorrente’s main road is Via D’Azeglio. Not far from the bridge is the chiesa dell’Annunziata . A little further on, is the old hospital, a Renaissance complex, now home of the State Historic Archives, the town archives, the town video library and a few societies. Every Thursday, the mercatino dell’antiquariato or antiques market takes place under the building’s porticoes. Further on are the “di Pavlot” towers, symbolic of the area and a lovely example of medieval architecture. Via D’Azeglio’s side streets are worth a visit as this is the heart of the real Parma.
Parco Ducale
The city’s common has various entrances (Ponte Verdi, Via dei Farnese, Ponte Caprazzucca, Via Kennedy, Via Pasini). For a refreshing, relaxing walk, immersed in greenery this is the ideal place. A paradise for children who can play, use the roundabout, hire small cars and run without danger. There is a splendid lake with ducks and swans and the Trianon fountain in the centre. A visit to the Palazzo Ducale surrounded by Boudard's statues is a definite must.
Cittadella
Built during the time of the Farnese, the Cittadella was a type of fort. Its perfectly conserved bastions are a long and very popular jogging track today. As in the Parco Ducale, the greenery and the trees make this a great place for babies and children. There are many students who take refuge here in the summer to read or study on the isolated benches. Inside there is also a youth hostel.