Cap's is tricky to find, although absolutely everyone knows where it is. On a small island in the middle of the Intracoastal Waterway, it is rustic beyond rustic, listed on the National Register of Historic Places and serves what may be the only fresh hearts of palm, a radically different delicacy than those canned things you might have had-in all of Florida. To go with those: home-baked bread, shrimp, scallops, oysters, pompano, crab, sea bass, kingfish, sea trout, swordfish, nearly everything else that swims. Open daily 5.30 onwards.