Due to the active Soufriere Hills Volcano, there's a global fascination attached to Montserrat these days. Thus, tourists certainly get treated to a novel island visit. Once here, they view this corner of the Caribbean with a new perspective, one not associated with other tropical experiences. Districts have shifted. What once existed is no more. But this beautiful emerald isle is rising from the ash and promises to gleam even brighter as an off-the-beaten-track destination.

Scientists have assured us that it is perfectly safe for visitors to come to the designated safe area in Montserrat. This is where you'll find the majority of activities and accommodations, and there is much to explore here.

St John's to St Peter's

We start our journey in the far north, which is the area farthest away from the volcano. Both the sea port and heliport are at this end of the island, so whether you are arriving on the Ferry or Helicopter you will be arriving in this area. To your north are the Silver Hills, which are somewhat dry, and undeveloped at present, but there are high hopes of building an airport there later on, and developing the area. Already a rough road has been cut through these hills, making them more accessible, and this is a good way to view the far north, although a four wheel drive vehicle is recommended.

At Sweeney's you'll find the beautiful new, locally owned Tropical Mansion Suites; it's a symbol of the island's regeneration, providing the best in hospitality. At Baker Hill is Grand View Bed & Breakfast, and at Manjack Heights is the newly opened Montserrat Moments.

On the steep road up Mongo Hill you'll find the Montserrrat Volcano Observatory (MVO), where a team of experts constantly monitor the volcano, educate the public and advise the government on levels of risk and daily volcanic activity. The volcano is not visible from here, but a host of sophisticated electronic equipment displays the scientists' data. This is also the staging area for field-study teams. The observatory is open for visits from M-Sa 3:30p-4p.

At Lookout and Davy Hill are the two main Lookout Housing Development, the result of a mainly British-funded initiative to re-house the many people who had to move north from the volcano. In addition, a self-help program has assisted many folks in putting up their own homes, which are scattered throughout the occupied area. There are several local businesses supplying imported building materials, fulfilling the needs of the island's rebuilding program.

At St. John's you'll find the relocated, but now modern and newly refurbished St. John's Hospital. Each main village has a government clinic; in St. John's and Cudjoe Head there are private doctors, offices as well, and there's a private dental office at Collin's Ghaut.

The Bank of Montserrat is in St. Peter's, and there are also several churches in each village. At Davy Hill near the new housing area is the National Development Foundation, providing valuable help to small and medium sized businesses, and so helping to rebuild the economy.

Brades, just outside Cudjoe Head, has the greatest concentration of shops and businesses (most locally owned), almost all having relocated from the destroyed capital, Plymouth. At intervals along the main road you will find supermarkets, bakeries, a pharmacy, electronics, housewares, stationery/book shops, a photo and souvenir shop, a fashion boutique, a pizzeria and Tina's Restaurant. These businesses do not form a cluster or shopping center, but are scattered along the main road; there is not yet a new "town."

The Golden Years Home for the Elderly, new and beautifully built by the local Red Cross, is also in Brades, as well as the new "temporary" Government Headquarters complex, which includes the General Post Office. Just off the main road is the Brades industrial area, home to three manufacturers of beautiful, locally made wooden furniture.

Woodlands, Olveston & Old Towne

These three up market residential areas on the west coast share a common history and characteristics. Driving southwards from St. Peter's, you will first come to Woodlands, which is located off the main road on both sides; further on, off to the right of the main road, you'll find Olveston and Old Towne.

Back in the 1960s these areas, previously large estates, were subdivided into lots and offered for sale, and from this sprang Montserrat's residential or villa tourism core. Many lots were first bought by North Americans and other expatriates, and later on by locals as well. Some of the dream homes that were built on these lots form today's furnished villas (many of which are available for rent), often featuring swimming pools, spacious patios and ornamental gardens. Details are available from real estate agents.

Woodlands, Lime Kiln and Old Road beaches are located along this section of coast. The British Governor's offices are housed in Olveston. Additionally several relocated businesses are to be found in Olveston as well, including the Royal Bank of Canada and the office of the Montserrat Reporter, the island's weekly newspaper. On the main road are the Montserrat Tourist Board and the Montserrat National Trust.

Old Towne is home to the acclaimed Pointe Hotel, one of two hotels on the island. The Vue Pointe's Conference Centre is the venue for a host of functions, concerts, stage performances, wedding receptions, meetings, workshops and conferences. The hotel's tennis courts near Old Road Beach have been partially refurbished, and are in full use. From Old Towne, on a clear day, one can get a spectacular view of the volcanic dome in the distance, although clouds very often hide it. Old Towne and Olveston are close to Salem, with its shops and supermarket, so they are also convenient for shopping. All three areas are easily accessible from the main road that runs north to south.

Salem

Traveling south from St. Peter's, and having passed the turns to Woodlands and Olveston, is the village of Salem, close to Old Towne and the Old Road Beach. Salem also includes Friths, Flemmings and Happy Hill villages. Salem and the surrounding areas were temporarily evacuated in 1997, but officially re-occupied in 1998. Salem features several shops, a supermarket, a fast food eatery and several bars. Places of worship are well represented here, with Anglican, Roman Catholic, Methodist, Pentecostal and Seventh Day Adventist churches in the village; most were used as evacuation shelters during the height of the volcanic crisis, but have resumed their intended use as churches for quite some time, as new homes went up for relocated residents.

Isle's Bay Hill & Belham

Immediately south of Salem and Old Towne lies the Belham River Valley, which has provided a convenient dividing line between the various zones at intervals throughout the volcanic crisis. This area is as far south as you are allowed to go, since there is a wide safety margin between safe and unsafe areas.

Sadly, the famous golf course in this valley has been completely inundated with mudflows, which come down from the volcano after heavy rain. These mud flows have also covered the Belham Bridge, which once crossed the river, and have extended the Old Road Beach, making it a treasure trove for volcanic souvenirs of pumice rock and pieces of burnt trees. This valley should be avoided after heavy rain because of the possibility of further mud flows. However, in dry weather, the site of the bridge will give you a unique view of the mud-covered valley's bleak landscape.

Isle's Bay Hill is immediately south of the Belham River. This is the most southerly area to be included in the occupied zone, although it has not yet enjoyed full restoration. Before the volcanic activity, several expensive homes were built in this high status area; a few residents, mostly expatriates, now occupy it. In this area you will find Garibaldi Hill with its panoramic view which includes the devastated capital, Plymouth.

The Daytime Entry Zone

This area is usually off limits, but may on occasion be opened for daytime visits at the discretion of the authorities and the volcano observatory. It consists of Cork Hill, Weekes, Richmond Hill and Foxes Bay, once thriving residential areas. If daytime visits are allowed during your visit to the island, check with the police first, go with a guide or driver, and respect any special instructions.

Richmond Hill provides a panoramic view of Plymouth, but a similar view can also be obtained from Garibaldi Hill in the occupied zone (see previous section). Make sure to have an ash mask ready for use if necessary. There is still quite a lot of ash on the ground in some parts of this zone, and it tends to blow about when disturbed by passing cars or the wind, especially on a dry, windy day.

The Exclusion Zone

This is a strictly enforced no-go area, and it's important to respect this rule. It includes the volcano itself, as well as Plymouth, the south and the east. Most of these formerly built-up areas are totally devastated now, with a bleak, gray-brown, ashy appearance, in stark contrast to the lush, green northern zone. The volcanic material can be quite hot just a few feet underneath, but in spite of this, grass and vegetation is beginning to grow in some places.

Parts of this zone can be viewed from safe vantage points in the occupied zone as already mentioned, Garibaldi Hill in the Isles Bay area, and Jackboy Hill on the north east coast. You can also view the devastated coast from the sea, but there is a two mile marine exclusion zone which should be respected.

Although the volcano is still active, experts point out that any ongoing or future eruptions will most likely follow the pattern already established, rather than impacting new areas. So once you follow the rules about avoiding the exclusion zone, you can be all set to enjoy your visit.