More a take-out counter than a sit-down cafe, the dim sum here is much more elegant than the surroundings in which it is sold. Generic glass display cases hold a delicious assortment of dumplings, egg rolls, pork and chicken buns, as well as toothsome custard tarts and doughy sesame balls, sometimes dubbed Chinese doughnuts. There are a few tables and chairs, but most of the customers that include Chinese ex-pats, Chinese Americans and tourists get their orders to go from the quick but sometimes harried counter staff. No credit cards are accepted.