This successful Portland mini-chain enters the competitive Thai-food scene with a showy restaurant. Wood, bamboo and silk accent the dining area. A 20-seat table, shared by all comers, forms the centerpiece and affords a view of the hardworking kitchen. The chef favors visual flair over flavor, but the flaming fish and grand garnishes alone may be worth a visit. The food is spicy, but cool salads offer some relief. A tea menu features 150 kinds of tea. An additional branch is located at: 1400 Western Avenue, Seattle.