St. Croix is the largest of the three main U.S. Virgin Islands with its 84 square miles (218 square kilometers) of rolling hills and sandy beaches, yet it receives fewer visitors than its sister islands of St. Thomas and St. John. The island is a pleasing middle ground between St. Thomas's focus on mass-market tourism and St. John's back-to-nature ambience. An occasional cruise ship calls in quaint Frederiksted, located at the western end of the island. The ship's passengers, along with hotel and vacation villa visitors, spread out across the island to enjoy beautiful vistas, boutique shopping and outdoor pursuits.

St. Croix is home to nearly 55,000 people, nearly the same as 28-square mile St. Thomas. With a refinery and other smaller industries providing employment, there is less focus on tourism than on the other two islands. Since the population density is low, it is rare to find crowded streets in the Christiansted and Frederiksted shopping areas. Parking can be a problem in Christiansted, however. The town serves as the seat of the island's commerce, and with minimal public transportation, workers usually drive to their downtown jobs.

Christiansted is usually the first stop for most visitors. A charming town with architecture that reflects the island's Danish heritage, many of the buildings are centuries old. Sitting at harbor's edge, the pastel blue, green and ochre buildings are trimmed in crisp white with red tin roofs. The abundance of ochre, or mustard yellow, comes from the Danish yellow brick brought over from Denmark as ship's ballast during the 18th century. The popular color predominates in the town's Fort Christianvaern and other Christiansted National Historic Site buildings run by the National Park Service.

Lush green hills provide Christiansted's backdrop. Alleyways filled with unique shops lead off a waterfront boardwalk. The town has several small hotels, many cozy eateries, bars, and a number of must-see historic sites and museums. Your first stop in town should be the National Park Service's Visitor's Center, located in the historic Fort Christianvaern, which is part of the Christiansted National Historic Site. Pick up a free walking tour map to make sure you do not miss any of the important landmarks. The local government also has the Christiansted Visitor's Center at 53A Company Street. Stop here for brochures on things to do across St. Croix.

The harbor, usually calm and turquoise, is home to about three dozen sailboats and a handful of charter boats that take visitors sailing, scuba diving or sport fishing. Seaplanes take off and land in the harbor on their trips to and from St. Thomas. A water taxi ferries people to Protestant Cay, a small island located in the middle of the harbor. It is home to Hotel on the Cay, a popular lunch and water sports spot for people staying in Christiansted.

Frederiksted, St. Croix's other town, is more like a village. It takes 45 minutes to drive from Christiansted, and can be reached via busy highways, or if time permits, on a more leisurely trip through the rain forest. The town is home to Frederiksted Cruise Ship Pier, the island's deep-water pier. You will find good restaurants and some shopping nearby if you arrive by cruise ship. However, when the cruise ships leave, the town rolls up the welcome mat and practically goes to sleep. You may not find all the shops and restaurants open when cruise ships are not in port, so call to make sure before you trek west. Fort Frederik, completed in 1760, provides a shady spot to relax near the pier. It was the site of the island's most important historical event. On July 3, 1848, following a rebellion by slaves, Danish Gov. Peter Von Scholten announced that they were now free on the fort's ramparts. Victorian buildings, two museums, several historic churches and the fruit and vegetable market are the most important attractions. The Tourism Department's Frederiksted Visitor's Center is right near the pier.

Out in the countryside, over 100 ruins of sugar cane mills and grand plantation homes dot the island. Many carry fanciful names such as Lower Love, Hard Labor and Work and Rest, all the legacy of some long-forgotten 18th or 19th-century planter. Some plantations have been restored as private homes, guest houses and museums. Whim Plantation Museum, just east of Frederiksted, is filled with antiques and is open daily for tours.

The beaches pale in comparison to those in St. John and St. Thomas, but you won't have to look hard to find a sandy strand to take in some sun. Many hotels are located beachside, and there are public parks located at the east and west ends of the island. One caveat: Deserted beaches may entice you with their privacy but for safety's sake, it is best to visit beaches where you won't be alone. Ask the hotel or vacation villa staff for their recommendations. To visit one of St. Croix's nicest beaches, take a day sail or Scuba trip to Buck Island Reef National Monument, a federally-protected island located less than two miles off St. Croix's north coast. Watching fish dart about the undersea coral garden that surrounds the island, hiking up an easy trail for spectacular views and lazing about in the sun or shade can fill an entire day.